HP Jacket 108 Debut

Here is my first version of this jacket. The new 2007 Hot Patterns Jacket 108--Debut! (See pattern photo in post just below this one). Loosely fitted jacket with dolman-type sleeves that can be worn with the belt or left open without the belt as desired. On my next version I am going to put a large button/button hole at the same place as the belt position.

Overall, I am very happy with this jacket. My impression is that it is the fabric that makes this jacket effective (a detailed fabric that has appeal just by itself). The fabric "makes the jacket" since there isn't much shaping with the jacket style itself. I was planning to use this pattern to make a light blue Easter jacket but I think I will use another pattern since the blue fabric I have doesn't have any pizazz in and of itself.

Changes I made to the pattern pieces included:

• Lengthened jacket 2 inches - I added the 2 inches at the hemline on Front and Back. Partly this is in lieu of doing a FBA. If you do not have this need, the original length of the jacket may be okay for you. Also, I am slightly long waisted so the need for length comes from two issues.
• Added a dart in Center Back 5 inches long and 3/8 wide at top to provide some shaping and give the back neck a better fit for me.
• I found this pattern to run large. I went down two sizes (according to my measurements on the pattern) and then still needed to take 1 inch side seams and at least that much off of the Center Fronts as well. Of course I transferred the changes to the pattern pieces so that I can make this again without having to do a fitting.

Construction Details:

• Understitched all of the facings on the CF and CB and around the hem to allow it to lay flat after reducing the bulk of the seams (the pattern doesn't mention these steps)
• Hand basted the facings to the main garment sections before top stitching
• Used a regular top stitch initially and then added a number 3 zig zag stitch over the straight stitch with button hole density to increase the visibility of the top stitching. In Burda World of Fashion Winter '07 Plus addition there is a jacket shown with this technique used and I liked the effect.
• Lengthening the Jacket and adjusting the CF pieces and side seams to take it in (make it smaller) means you also have to adjust the facings in the same ways in order for them to fit all around the jacket.