Shaped Jacket Success with Butterick 5053

Double tucks do the trick for providing the needing jacket shaping in the front for B5053 with vertical darts providing some definition in the back. Now I have shaping in both the front and the back of this jacket pattern. I used another pattern I had with double CF tucks to complete this look (Simplicity 3688, the Retro Blouse Pattern).

Actually I really like the overall effect of this pattern. It makes a great casual summer-weight jacket to wear with a fitted tee if you use light-weight but sturdy fabric (in this case quilting fabric). I like the shaping on the sides and the hem of this pattern. This one is great with jeans!

Adding Dart Shaping to Butterick 5053 Jacket

I overlaid the Camp Shirt Pattern B5047 with the Jacket pattern B5053 to experiment with CF and CB darts to add some shape to this open style jacket with scarf collar (see my earlier post for original shaping of jacket). My initial impression is that the back darts are a definite plus for this jacket. What do you think?

However, the front darts I tried here definitely need more work. The darts create an unattactive "poofy" effect at the lower edge below the dart. Since I don't want to remove the hem to take the dart all the way to the hemline I am going to reshape the dart, narrowing the dart significantly at the lower end. I do like the shaping it provides at the top of the dart. So, by tomorrow afternoon hopefully I will have a photo showing a smoother CF with an improved CF dart here.

This is one reason why we have seam rippers right?

8 Items for Tag

Duke and Dutchess

Nanflan/SewWest invited fellow bloggers to volunteer to participate in the 8 item tag.

So, here is what I have to contribute.

8 bits of facts to share about me:


1. If you are a member of this sewing community it wouldn't come as any surprise to you that I have a large stash of patterns and fabric. I love the thrill of the hunt and the capture of exciting fabric yardage and just the right pattern. But in my case I have decided that my stash is a completed collection for the time being. I plan to work mostly from what I have collected for the next few years, and just buy coordinating fabrics if needed to match what I already have. I think I could probably create just about any style from the patterns I already have. Sure, I will buy a few, but mostly work with what I already have. I have taken the challenge!


2. In addition to sewing, another hobby I have is music. I have happily collected all the major members of the flute family (with the exception of the base flute). I have the following flutes: piccolo, 3 C flutes, E flat, and alto. I currently don't have a group to play with but plan to look for another group in the next year or so. I have a part-time paid position playing piano every Sunday for one church service. It has really been fun to do and something I have wanted to try for years. The job kind of “fell in my lap.” I had filled in there as a musician at this church a number of times since moving here three years ago. One of the regular musicians they had on staff failed to show up one Sunday and didn't call in. Needless to say, he was fired. They called me and offered me the position. Of course I said, YES!


3. I am a dog lover and always have been. We have two dachshunds, a black-colored miniature long-haired female named Dutchess (8 years) and a short-haired silver dapple male named Duke (9 months)--both dogs are still vying for the alpha role; lots of power plays to see who is the boss.


4. Although I didn't plan to do it earlier in my life, I am currently finishing up a doctorate in Rehabilitation Education, hoping to graduate this coming December if I can just finish the dissertation?! Three years ago our family moved 3 hours away from home (Little Rock, AR at the time) to allow me the opportunity to do this program. Wow! The time has flown by and many days I can't believe I have actually almost finished it. My family has been wonderfully supportive of this endeavor. I couldn't have done it without them. We hope to move to the Pacific NW (Seattle area) this coming January (assuming I can find a job there). My husband and I both grew up there.


5. Since we have two boys, we are all into Boy Scouting. Yes, I have a uniform too. I have filled lots of roles over the years. My older son is an Eagle scout and our 14 year old son is coming up the ranks. We really like scouting since it provides so many great learning opportunities in life skills for guys!


6. I would love to take a couple of trips to Europe sometime in the next decade—something I have never done.


7. My parents are having their 50th wedding anniversary celebration this August and we are going to Seattle for the event. I fashioned a customized banner that will be suspended from the doorway to the event that is quilted, appliqued, and has beading on it. Some of the techniques I learned from reading some of the sewer blogs in this community. Thank you for your input!


8. My older son (19) just bought his first car, and he and my husband are off on a road trip to go pick up the car (a red 1988 cadillac with the square body shape) in Nashville, TN for the next couple of days.

Butterick Pattern, B5053 by Connie Crawford. This jacket is my wearable muslin version of the Connie Crawford Jacket with Scarf Collar. I used a cotton quilt-type fabric for the jacket body and a polyester medium weight for the collar and cuffs. The blue color in the print is great to wear with jeans, and then I have a RTW top that matches the green in the print. The jacket is lightweight and it kind of feels like wearing a blouse--actually it is a great summer jacket. I do recommend this pattern--it is easy to make after you have conquered any fitting issues.

I made a size XL, size 16, but probably could have used the size L, size 14, because the jacket ran big.

This pattern has nice shaping on the hem with shaped up sides and

side vents, and also has a scooped front hem edge.

Next Time: Lengthen collar to fit neck edge--the neck edge is elongated from cutting 3/4 inch (on the double) off of CF. Add vertical darts in front and back to give the jacket more shape.

Changes I Made to the Pattern:

• Shortened sleeves to 3/4 length and changed cuff dimensions to fit this sleeve length. I cut the sleeves on the cross grain to get the vertical dimension with the geometric print.
• Removed about 3/4 of an inch off of the entire center front and neck seam. I had already cut out the collar when I decided to remove fabric from the CF. The collar needs to be lengthened in order to fit the "new" CF. I will lengthen the collar for the next version.
• Pinched out a 3/8 inch dart off of CB to remove excess fabric in back.
• Added a little more fullness to sleeve head; I basted the sleeves and side seams in and then tried the jacket on. The upper sleeve was somewhat tight, so I removed the sleeves and recut them to add 1 inch to the sleeve head. I was able to ease the extra inch into the sleeve without any puckers. Now the sleeve fits like it should.
• Since the fabric is so lightweight, I added a strip of soft fusible interfacing to the CF and around the back neck, 1 1/2 inches wide, and top stitched it on the outer edge. The interfacing stabilized the collar with this fabric. I also added interfacing to the inside of the hem to stabilize it as well.
• Did you happen to notice the bias binding at the bottom of the collar? This was my solution to cover a construction "mistake." My high school sewing teacher always told us, "You can find a solution for almost any mistake you might make in sewing if you don't panic about it. Stop and brainstorm about some creative options for fixing it." I accidentally scorched the end of the collar with my iron. There was a streak of brown on one end of the collar that was quite noticeable. I was able to cover up this area with the bias binding on the end of the collar. So of course I added the same design element to the other side of the collar. Voila! Fixed.
• I used a Hong Kong Finish (bias wrapped seams) to finish all the seams in the jacket. Suprisingly, the wrapped seams helped to further stablize the shape of the jacket, since the body of the jacket is made from lightweight cotton.

Tango Skirt #2 with matching scarf

Coming up: I have a second Tango Skirt and matching scarf to post later this week

Do you use sewing as a reward for completing other projects that aren't quite as fun?

I have a need to "dive down" for the next few days and work on another section of my dissertation project--rewarding, especially when a section is completed, but it's just not the same as sewing is it!

People who sew are admirers of other kinds of art and beauty. I walk by this building every day on my way into campus. I love the beauty of the restored building and the gardens that surround it.

At one time this building was a dorm for the small group of women that attended the University of Arkansas, beginning in 1874. Ella's Restaurant and Inn is the modern name for the business that now operates there. The Hotel Management Degree program on campus runs the businesses at it is wonderful-great food, nostalgic ambiance, art pieces--the furniture is a mixture of modern and old from a variety of eras. High ceilings, plush carpets, shiny wooden floors. The hallways are adorned with photos of students, teachers, sorority/fraternity functions etc. from 1874 - 1960 when the building was condemned. I enjoy following the fashion epic throughout the years represented by the photos. A lot of weddings and receptions are held in the outer courtyard just in front of where the flowers are in the photograph.

http://www.ellasrestaurant.com/

Happy Easter (See sewing post below this)

Happy Easter

In the spirit of the Easter season, realizing the true reason we celebrate Easter:

To commemorate Christ's sacrificial death and

resurrection for all of us!

On Summerset Banks blog, Pins and Needles, she expressed a similar statement, and I knew I wanted to do the same.

I have heard it said, in the first century after Christ's death and resurrection there was a formal greeting between people of faith that started with one person saying,

"Jesus Christ is risen," and it was followed by another person replying, "He is risen indeed!"

I had the privilege today at church to provide the piano accompaniment for a male soloist who sang, "You Raise Me Up" by Josh Groban. I don't know if you are like me, but the first time I heard this song playing via car radio, I had to pull over on the side of the road and listen to it--I was so moved by the music and words.

It seems there are many possible applications for how a person might interpret the message of this song.

One year I incorporated some of the song's themes in a Father's Day card for my Dad. As an Easter special music selection, "You Raise Me Up" was used today as an illustration of how the power of spiritual strength is available, and how it can lift a person up in a time of special need.

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By Googling I found a website with a free recording of this song if you would like to hear it.
http://ladynwavsone.com/raisemeup.html Website with recording of "You Raise Me Up"

LH Tango Skirt: Easter 2007

What can you SEW when you are short on time but want something pretty and new? One idea is to make a skirt and purchase a top. I made the Loes Hinse Tango Skirt and paired it with 2 ready-to-wear (RTW) tops for Easter 2007!

The Loes Hinse Tango Skirt with 2 tops
Loes Hinse Tango Skirt with 10 panels: Semi-fitted at the top with flair at the bottom, elastic waist; I lined this skirt with an A-line two-piece pattern. As a number of other people have reported, this is a delightful

pattern. It is easy to sew (not necessarily

fast with a slippery fabric), easy to fit,

and flattering to many body types. The Lining: Spring colors are fun

It was fun to wear this outfit today--I felt very springy and light. I haven't had an outfit with these colors in years. Sometimes it is nice to deviate from your normal color selections and go with something different.

The shoes and necklace below

What's missing?: The jackets! Below is the blue stretch-woven fabric to make a jacket. I also have light pink fabric for another jacket. This will be a Burda World of Fashion Jacket with pink top stitching and pink buttons. Even though the jackets aren't a reality yet, I still have an outfit to wear with just with the tops and skirt!

I bought a DRESS FORM on an Ebay estate sale about a year ago--I am enjoying the ability to view the overall effect of an outfit's appearance and of course to check sizing for garments, and to photograph sewing creations. This dress form is a vintage Sally Stitch dress form, Size C.

What to Change:

When I put this outfit together with the colored tops and the necklace on the dress form, I quickly determined that I liked the effect of the blue top (by itself) better than the pink. I also noticed that the top would look better if shortened by 1.25 inches at the hem. What I didn't notice or discover ahead of wearing it today, is that when I sit down the lining slips out below the hem in the front of the skirt. That is easily fixed though--I will simply shorten the lining slip another couple of inches.